Frequently Asked Questions

General

Why the ads?

Creating and maintaing this site is a lot of work, and my webhosting isn't free. I don't expect to quit my day job, but I'd like to break even!

Adding Patterns

What if there are two patterns with the same name?

It happens; just go ahead and add it to the database. The other identifying characteristics of the pattern should be enough for us to tell them apart. If I get feedback that it's confusing, I'll add numbers to them based on their order in the database (i.e. Scarf 1, Scarf 2).

Should I include "A" or "The" at the beginning of a pattern name?

No, leave them off.

What if I can't figure out who the pattern author is?

Do your best. If you can't find a real name, a blog name or bulletin board username is fine too. If all else fails, use the website name.

What do you mean by source?

Where does the pattern come from? We want to make it as easy as possible for others to find the pattern, even if the link we include is broken. We also want to give credit where it's due.

Why does the type matter?

The source type may matter to someone looking for an online project that they can start today; it may not matter to the person looking for the ultimate cabled sock pattern.

Can you define the different types for me?

Sure:

Webzine: A free online magazine published regularly that contains contributions from multiple people.
Magazine: A traditional magazine that can be purchased at retail locations or subscribed to.
Pattern Flyer - Free: Those tear-off flyers you see in craft stores everywhere. Also patterns that come on yarn wrappers.
Booklet: More than a flyer, less than a book; usually has 10-15 patterns.
Book: A full fledged, bound book.
Commercial Website - Free: A free pattern on a website that offers free patterns to entice you to buy something.
Commercial Website - For Sale: A pattern for sale on a retail site.
Personal Website - Free: Patterns offered for free on personal sites or blogs.
Personal Website - For Sale: Patterns for sale on a site that is not retail focused. (A popular blogger that sells the occasional pattern, for example)
Pattern Flyer - For Sale: Single pattern flyers for sale at craft or yarn stores. Sometimes printed in full color on nice cardstock.

What if more than one source type applies?

For example, if a pattern is available for download from a blogger's site, and she also sells flyers through yarn stores? We'd prefer to always select the online option and link to her blog. This is because the internet is the common denominator for all of us. If you're reading this, you have internet access, but there's no guarantee that you have a local yarn store!

URL of what, exactly?

If it's a pattern posted online somewhere, then just submit the URL for that pattern. If the pattern is in a book, submit a link to it on Amazon (preferred) or on the publisher's website. If the pattern is in a magazine, submit a link to the publisher's site, if possible.

Do you want the type of yarn in any specific format?

Usually, copying it as listed in the pattern is good enough. If in doubt, Yarn Brand Yarn Name Yarn Weight is good, and Yarn Weight isn't always necessary. Example: Lion Brand Wool-Ease Sport

You know, yardage per skein varies so much, why didn't you use yards instead of skeins?

Unfortunately, most designers list the number of skeins of a certain yarn that they used; tracking down specific yarns and figuring out the yardage for every size of every pattern that you want to submit would get pretty old, pretty fast.

What if the amount of yarn called for spans two of your categories?

When possible, pick the category that is most representative of the pattern, but if in doubt, pick the largest category that applies.

If the pattern doesn't say so, how do I figure out what weight the yarn is?

Try the Yarndex. It hasn't failed me yet.

When should I pick Knit & Crochet as the medium?

Only when significant knowledge of both crafts are required to complete an item. For example, crocheting around a neckline is common in knitting patterns, but is not enough to qualify the pattern as Knit & Crochet. Crocheting a complicated lace trim for the hem and sleeves would be.

Can you explain your difficulty levels?

Sure:

First Project: A pattern so incredibly easy that it makes a great first project. That means rectangles, lots of garter stitch and very little seaming.
Beginner: Projects for first-time knitters using basic knit and purl stitches. Minimal shaping.
Easy: Projects using basic stitches, repetitive stitch patterns, simple color changes, and simple shaping and finishing.
Intermediate: Projects that incorporate small cables, simple lace stitches, colorwork with multiple bobbins or skeins. These patterns have more details, more shaping and more finishing. Definitely do-able for an adventurous beginner with some patience.
Advanced: Projects with more complex cables, lace or colorwork. These patterns are likely to incorporate numerous techniques, and may require quite a lot of thought. Stitch patterns may span 20 or more rows. Attention to detail, and experience fixing mistakes are a must.
World Class Challenge: This designation is reserved for those patterns that are so mind blowing that the knitter ought be awarded Master Knitter status on the spot. Incredibly detailed intarsia, breath-taking cables and knots, cob-web lace patterned on every row...you get the idea.

Why are both "NA" and "Unisex" options?

NA means that it really isn't applicable; anybody can carry a purse or use a doily. Unisex means that a garment is appropriate for both men and women with no changes. So socks, or sweaters that come in large size ranges and don't have gender specific shaping or detailing.

I don't agree with your categories...

Not surprising! We all think about the world differently. Try handing a bucket of legos to a bunch of six year olds and ask them to sort the pieces. Will they sort by color? Size? Shape? Or will arguments break out about which way is best?
I've tried to develop categories that will at least make sense to other people, even if they're not intuitive.

Could you add ...?

Probably! I know I can't possibly have thought of everything, so if you have a pattern that you don't think fits in anywhere, email me.

What's the difference between an iPod bag and a cozy?

A bag is meant to be carried by itself, and usually has room for accessories. A cozy is just meant to cover and protect, and is often mostly decorative.

How do I know which fit level to pick?

The easiest way is if the designer tells you (and I wish more of them did!). Does the pattern have two sets of measurements, one for the finished garment size and one for your size? For example, if the pattern says that a finished size of 34" should fit a 32" bust, then you have +2" of ease. If the pattern doesn't say, you can look at the gauge and the number of stitches you're asked to cast on for the smallest size. Cast on number, divided by stitches in gauge, times gauge width is roughly the finished size. Is that bigger or smaller than the body measurement given?

Can you explain the different necklines?

Sure:

V: This neckline is rounded at the back, but dips to a v-shape at the front of the garment.
Bateau: A high, wide straight neckline that runs straight across the front and back, meeting at the shoulders; almost no neck shaping required.
Cowl: A neckline with extra fabric that forms a swag from shoulder to shoulder at the front, back, or both.
Keyhole: A neckline with a small cutout that fastens at the front or back.
Scoop: A low, u-shaped neckline.
Shawl: A large, long collar that can be folded back to create a shawl-like affect.
Square: A low, squared-off neckline.
Strapless: More the absence of a neckline than anything.
Crew: A high, round neckline with ribbing.
Turtle: A high, round neckline with a fold-over collar.
Split: A round neckline that looks like it has been snipped.
Round: Somewhere between a crew neck and a scoop neck.
Off Shoulder: There are sleeves or straps of some kind, but this neckline is definitely for the daring.
Hooded: There are a number of ways to add a hood to a pullover or cardigan, but the most common seems to be to pick up stitches along a round or shallow V neckline and knit up, seaming at the top.

Can you explain the different sleeve types?

Sure:

Long Sleeves: Sleeves that go at least to the wrist, possibly covering part of the hands as well.
Short Sleeves: Sleeves that cover the upper arm, but do not reach the elbow.
Cap Sleeves: Sleeves that cover the shoulder joint but do not extend down the arm.
Three-quarter length: Sleeves that reach past the elbow, but not as far as the wrist.
Bracelet Length: Sleeves that stop just short of the wrist to show off your jewelry. (If you've got it, flaunt it!)
Sleeveless: No sleeves at all. This doesn't necessarily equate to a tank top, though.

What do you mean by construction methods?

A construction method describes how the fabric is being formed. Some methods are compatible, while others are mutually exclusive.
For example, you can knit in the round and top down at the same time, but you can't knit top down and bottom up (although you may do both over the course of a project.)

Can you explain the different construction methods?

Sure:

Bias: Some pieces are designed to be knit on the bias, so that you increase at one or both sides of the shape. For example, a square blanket may be knit starting at one corner and increasing until it is wide enough, then decreasing to the other corner. Scarves can be knit in the same manner, but once the correct width is reached, you increase at one end and decrease at the other, forming a rectangle.
Bottom Up: The piece is knitted beginning at the bottom--from the toe to the shin for a sock, from the waist to the neck for a sweater.
In the Round: Knitting that is done on a circular needle or double-pointed needles to create a round or tubular piece of fabric; often used to avoid seams.
Sideways: A few garments are designed to be knit from side to side, or from wrist band to wrist band.
Top Down: The piece is knit from the top to the bottom; from neckline to hem, from shin to toe, etc.

How many cronstruction methods should I select?

Our default assumption is that a pattern is knit "flat"; if the pattern is something like a washcloth where there isn't an obvious "top" or "bottom", you may not need to select anything. Just skim through the pattern and select the methods that you think apply.

What exactly are techniques?

Techniques are ways of shaping or decorating the fabric, either as it is formed (short row darts) or after (steeks). Many techniques may be used in the course of a project. Be sure to select all that apply.

Can you explain the different techniques?

Sure:

Beading: Beads may be knit or crocheted into your fabric as you go, or added afterward.
Bobbles: These are little bunches of yarn that stick out from the fabric. Basically, you increase a whole bunch at once, and then decrease all the stitches together again. Hard to describe, really.
Cables: Stitches are crossed in front or behind each other to create complicated looking patterns. The technique can be as simple as four stitches crossed regularly to mimic a rope or as complex as many strands weaving over and under each other to form amazing braids.
Crochet Finish: Crochet stitches are used to finish the edges of a knit item. Other edge treatments are usually easily substituted, so this amount of crochet in a knit item doesn't categorize it as "Knit and Crochet".
Drop Stitches: Stitches are intentionally dropped off your needles and encouraged to unravel before your eyes, leaving a trail of ladders. Some pre-planning is required to make sure your project doesn't come entirely apart.
Embroidery: A surface embellishment applied using a needle and thread/yarn. Includes duplicate stitch.
Fair Isle: Usually small repeating motifs knit with only a few colors per row. Colors are carried along the back of the work.
Felting: Also known as fulling. An animal fiber is knit, crocheted or woven into a fairly loose fabric shape. The fabric is then subjected to temperature changes and agitation to cause it to shrink and thicken.
Filet: A type of crochet that uses "open" and "closed" blocks to create patterns. It can be duplicated by knitting, but only with some difficulty.
Intarsia: Blocks of color knit with separate balls or bobbins of yarn. Often used for pictoral knitting.
Knots: The techniques used to make cables, when augmented by strategically placed increases or decreases, can also be used to construct complicated celtic-inspired knots.
Lace: Lace is knit by strategically placing yarn-overs and decreases together over a repeat of several rows. Lace can be quite simple or breathtakingly difficult.
Modular: A large piece of fabric is formed by knitting smaller shapes which are joined to previously knit pieces as you go along. For example, knit a square, bind off, then pick up stitches along the edge and knit another square.
Mosaic: This is a color work technique that can be used to create patterns similar to Fair Isle. The advantage is that mosaic knitting involves manipulating one color of yarn at a time through the magic of slip stitches. It's incredibly easy to learn.
Needle Felting: A surface embellishment applied using a special felting needle and wool of some kind.
Short Rows: Short rows occur when you turn your knitting before reaching the end of a row. Short rows can be used to add shaping darts to clothing or to add more dramatic shape effects to hats or scarves.
Smocking: In knitting as in sewing, smocking is a technique that allows you to gather in a bunch of fabric. It can create an attractive decorative affect.
Steeks: Steeks are often used in conjunction with color work. A sweater, even a cardigan, may be knit in the round up to the shoulders. The knitted piece is then CUT to create arm and neck holes. Stitches are picked up along the cut edges and knit. Some knitters regard this as a very easy and useful technique. Others recommend having a glass of wine before your first steek.
Tunisian: A method of crochet using a longer hook that creates a fabric that has something of the look of knitting.